Welcome to Beijing

As we were going to China to swim outdoors in the middle of winter it was appropriate that we were delayed one hour at Newark Airport by the first snow of the season as the plane was de-iced.  After the 13 hour flight we were met at the airport by Regina, a representative of the China Shandong Travel Agency – a sponsor of the event.  Regina and her colleagues including Jin, her Director were to be our sherpas.  The one hour trip from Beijing Airport (home of the biggest building in the world – there’s a lot of that in China – largest, oldest, longest, etc.) introduced us to the city – dense traffic on wide streets, surprisingly not a lot of pedestrians, and as expected the hazy ‘fog.’  We went directly to the Rainbow Hotel.  Built probably for the 2008 Olympics, no marble was spared in the décor of the lobby.  After a quick change we went down to the welcome dinner and to meet the other participants.

An Alternative World

We didn’t know it at the time when the four of us – Dave, Bill, George and myself – walked into the dining room, but we were entering a parallel universe.  It was a world inhabited by the denizens of the international cold water swimming community.  Jumping into cold water is admittedly an odd habit.  At the welcome dinner we met our fellow participants.  They were from Russia, Estonia, Poland, England and Latvia.  And as usual, appearances are deceiving.  Those two women with great East End accents – both swam the English Channel; the shy guys from Estonia  – who cut holes in the ice for their weekly swims – are wonderfully gregarious after a few drinks; the Swedish friends for all their wild stories are two of the most grounded guys we met.  But that first evening we were all a bit reserved as we ate the first of many “banquets.” That meal, and all them to follow, were lavish with platters of noodles, soups, meats, fish and greens. Most of the time we could tell what we were eating (such as when the poultry was recreated as a bas-relief chicken with the head intact) though there were dishes that were a complete mystery.  But it was obvious from that first night we would not go hungry.

Over dinner we learned that many of our fellow travelers had participated in winter swim events before in places such as Russia, Finland and Argentina.  Though the four of us had not, as members of the Coney Island Polar Bear Club, we were held in high respect as the club is the granddaddy of winter bathing organizations, founded in 1903 – and has met every Sunday at 1 PM since then.

Though our dinner partners had much experience in the world of cold water swimming there was no bragging or competitive talk.  Additionally there was little, if any discussion about one’s job, or status. It was all about sharing experiences and being welcomed into this quirky little community.

Before we turned in the four of us did a short tour of the environs around the hotel.  Beijing was once comprised of thousands of ‘hutongs” – small low rise neighborhood units with housing and shops.  Many of them have been leveled over the years and replaced by high rise apartments – many looking like Coop City.  But walking around the block we discovered a small remnant of a hutong and made our first purchase of Chinese junk food (a bag of sweetened corn chip sticks fro 1 Yuan – 60 cents).

Though the Rainbow Hotel had a fabulous lobby and provided great buffet breakfasts, their beds were of the Flintstone variety.  Between their firmness and the jet lag the four of us probably got a total of three hours of sleep.

Let’s Do Beijing!

One day limits what one can see in the world’s biggest city, so we did the three top sites: Tiananmen Square; the Forbidden City; and the Great Wall.  Jin, our guide did his best to discuss the Chinese view of the world, and as a diplomat he was very good.  It all boiled down to “democracy takes time in a country such as China.”  Walking through the Square and in to the Forbidden City one gets a sense of the enormity of it all.  In the Forbidden City one can understand why there was a revolution and the urgent desire of the masses to get a piece of the action – not that Communism did that but it surely was a reaction to excesses of the .0001 percent that ruled the country prior.  And when the pendulum swung the other way during the Cultural Revolution there was just as much in the way of upheaval.  Lesson learned: in a country of over 1 billion people nothing is easy.

Prior to the Great Wall was the stop at a jade carving operation for a tutorial in jade – and visit to the adjoining retail showroom (this was be repeated in learning about silk and tea in similar facilities –  and just like Marco Polo we brought back our requisite jade doo das, silky soft thingees, and rare -so we were told –  teas).

Though the Great Wall stretches for thousands of miles we visited the section closest to Beijing.  The entry level had the looks of every tourist attraction around the world – bus parking, snack bars and souvenir stands.  But here we are – and we climbed, and climbed and climbed.  There is no top but we estimated that we walked up about 90 stories.  From the highest tower we climbed we could see the wall ribbon through on the landscape.  It was a tough and strenuous walk up – and just as difficult going down due to the uneven risers. Built originally to keep out the Mongols, the Great Wall is now the great – and certainly worthy – tourist attraction.  Clearly the Ming Dynasty had an eye on future economic revenues, logos, branding and naming of Chinese take-outs the world over.

Faster Than a Speeding Subway to Jinan

I am told a few billion dollars were invested in the bullet train between Beijing and Shanghai.  Clean, slick and unbelievably fast at about 300km an hour we were in Jinan in a few hours.  Jinan -about half way between the two major cities –  was once a capital city and it is known for its many springs, hence the location for the winter swimming festival.

Upon arriving in Jinan we met the the other members of the international group that had landed in Shanghai a few days earlier.  For the members of our group who knew some of them it was old home week – lots of greetings and hugs and warm welcomes – and those same welcomes were extended to us newbie’s – all of which solidified our entry into this alternative universe.

In Jinan we learned a little more of how this world was organized.  Many countries – especially those in Europe – have winter swimming clubs. The IWSA is the official collective organization that sponsors winter swimming events worldwide.  The IWSA isn’t to be confused with the International Ice Swimming Association based in South Africa.  That group authorizes the “ice mile.”  The ice mile is the holy grail of cold water swimming – one mile in 5C water.  The IWSA is about participation and competition.  To that end there is room for both racing and dipping.  In remarks at lunch (which were to be repeated in one form or another at the ceremonies we participated in) the IWSA leadership talked about the health benefits of cold water swimming and advocacy for clean waters around world.  It all sounded great and made me feel good about this sport!

After lunch was a quick dip in Lake Daming, the venue for the swim.  The options for the next day were a 300M swim or a “performance.”  The water was fresh – we were told it was drinkable which was good to know as I did suck in a lot of it. And of course it was cold – about 41F cold. Stick you hand in a pitcher of  water that has been in the fridge – well it’s a bit colder than that!

Chariots of Fire

In an inspired moment before we left, Dave suggested that we wear blazers, khakis and red, white and blue rep ties to the official banquet dinner.  And we did.  We looked great – though perhaps a little like a barbershop quartet.  At the dinner we were feted by the Mayor and other local officials.  The toasts – “Gan Bei” – were made over firewater.  We were to have different brands of the stuff – some stronger and smellier than others but all very potent.  A few shots of that and some beer provide a quick kick to any occasion – especially at winter swim meets.

The night prior to the swim there wasn’t a lot of sleep.  At Coney Island we wade in, form a circle, then some swim, some play and we all shout: there is no pressure.  But combined with a new venue, the cold water and onlookers – and the infusion of many participants from all over China – added to the uncertainty of it all.

Cool Runnings, the Jamaican Bobsled Team & True Grit

Saturday morning was the main event.  Each of us probably checked our bags more than a few times for our silicon caps, goggles, earplugs and any lucky amulets before the bus pulled out.  Our team wore the official Coney Island Polar Bear Robes – big furry things with outsized hoods suitable for warming up after cold water swims or attending hobbit conventions.  We brought along the American flag – after all we were the de facto team representing the USA.  We literally wrapped ourselves in it, held our little flags and were photographed by countless photographers.  The thought that we are now in the photo apps of hundreds of smart phones in China is very amusing.  There was an opening ceremony with speeches: Chinese officials spoke of the event with gravitas; then there was lots of music and drumming – followed by the main event – a swim in the cold water.

Dave and George – great athletes both – chose the swim. Though I had trained I was not sure of my ability to do 300 meters in unknown waters and chose the performance.  Bill too chose the performance.  What we did not know was that others were actually “performing.”  But nevertheless we jumped in the lake and swam; Bill towards the buoy and me along the shoreline.  Not much of a performance (compared to the groups that set out to catch ducks and balloons) but a hell of a lot fun.  Dave caught it all on video – and yes we were the equivalent of the Jamaican Bobsled Team – and we had a great time doing it!

George and Dave took a boat out to the island in order to swim back the 300 meters.  George has done many competitions.  He ended up doing the back stroke which successfully got him to shore.  Dave is an excellent athlete and did the swim in under 7 minutes and won 100Y (about $16).  I want to think that the four of us made the Coney Island Polar Bear Club – and the United States – proud of our efforts.

Our fellow participants represented their countries well too.  But in the end it was more about competing with ourselves.  Though some of our group could have bragged that they had swum the English Channel, the Bearing Strait and glacial lakes in Patagonia there was nothing but support for everyone’s efforts.

The Hangover

There was a sense of pride, relief and relaxation after the morning’s events.  We were taken to a celebratory lunch and then a tour of Jianan’s parks which are comprised of natural springs.  In the main square we noted we were the only foreigners.  As it was a Saturday afternoon and not too chilly, the park was crowded with many families.

In the evening we were treated to a gala dinner.  More platters of food, much firewater and lots of toasts to our fellow swimmers.  As expected many of us didn’t want the evening to end.  So it seemed like a good idea to keep the party going and get to know our new friends a little better. I always believed that the two things that bring people together – especially if they don’t speak the same language – are sports and music.  As we had already done the sports component it seemed that the music component was next. Jinan is not known for its nightlife but we did find the ‘Money, Money’ karaoke bar and soon there were two cabs of somewhat inebriated, cold water swimmers on their way there.  ‘Money, Money’ wasn’t like a karaoke bar we were familiar with.  We were given our own room – think of a suburban basement with a large screen television.  Beverages were purchased from an internal shop.  The only issue was that the whole thing was in Chinese.  Though there were some efforts to figure out the system we just drank and improvised.  And we were pretty good at it…or so we thought.  But then again we were our own audience.  We did make it back to the hotel for a nightcap.  We were reminded by one of our team to “act chill” as we entered the hotel lobby. Unfortunately his grip on the beer bottles wasn’t very good.  But it appeared that the desk attendant was used to this and seemed happy to clean up the small spillage that occurred. It was a memorable night – at least for those with memory of it.  And for those that don’t there are some videos lurking about – but be assured they will not be placed on Facebook. Ever.

Colonial Taierzhuang

Sunday morning was a bit foggy in many ways.  We were told that we going to Taierzhuang, a small but historical city about 4 hours south of Jinan for a ‘recreational swim.’  We looked forward to this as it was to be more low key than Jinan.  The drive south took us on the Chinese version  of the interstate.  As on the bullet train we passed cities that seemed to grow out of nowhere – imagine driving through Ohio and coming across Co-op or Starrett City in the middle of a field.  Some seemed occupied, others not completed.  We learned that developers would build first and hold on until the market was favorable to sell.

Taierzhuang was built on the crossroads of canals that connected the Yangtze and Yellow Rivers.  During the Japanese occupation it was devastated.  Subsequently the old town (“ancient city”) was rebuilt as a tourist destination.  Replete with stone structures, cobbled streets, bridges and pagodas it is in some ways the Chinese version of Williamsburg, Virginia. No one actually lives in the old town,  but it does have shops and inns and is pedestrian friendly and built to give great views and access to the many canals.

Upon entering the town we saw signs welcoming us to the ‘First Taierzhuang Winter Swimming Festival.’ Clearly this was more than a recreational swim as evidenced by the signage and crowds coming in to view the “Festival.”  After lunch we were told to change into our swimsuits and were escorted over to a central plaza overlooking the Grand Canal.  We were treated to another ceremony and speeches (“winter swimming is good for health” …“international cooperation through frozen members”  or something like that) and then protected by police from the crowds, we walked a red carpet in our swim trunks and in groups jumped into the canal while thousands of onlookers along the shore and on the bridges watched.  After the swim we were deluged by people seeking photographs of foreigners with hairy chests.

After the swim was another banquet – lots of food, toasts, and gifts – we were treated like rock stars.

Back to Beijing

We bid goodbye to the Shanghai group at the Jinan train station.  In the span of only a few days we became a tight and cohesive group; it was hard to say goodbye knowing the experience would end.  We also had to say goodbye to Jin – who truly was an excellent guide and loves what he does.  In Beijing we were met by his assistant who, in the spirit of leaving us no time alone, took us to a local tea house (demonstration/purchase)  followed by dinner and a kung fu show that was akin to watching a cartoon with live performers.

We did have a few unescorted hours on our last morning prior to leaving for the airport. We figured out the subway system, went a few stops, shopped for last minute souvenirs and walked through the Temple of the Heavenly Gate Park on the way back to the hotel – watching the seniors sing in a happy chorus. During our ride back to the airport we drove again through this enormous city with its wide streets, new buildings and unique fog.  After a last call at the airport bar we took off – George and Bill back to the States, and Dave and I went on to Hong Kong (Figuring we were in the south east Asian neighborhood we decided to  take a few days and explore the city: climbing Victoria Peak, roaming the mid-levels, ordering custom made suits and enjoying a great dinner with ex-pat friends Neil and Steve. We also did a longish swim in the South China Sea – warm for us despite the locals wearing their winter parkas!)  On the last evening we sampled the excellent martinis at the Peninsula Hotel – it should  be noted that in China – a country of 1.2 billion – it is impossible to get a good martini).

The End

Our trip to China was 8 days – and we each came away with different memories and thoughts. Three months ago I – and my teammates – never thought we’d be swimming in the winter in China.  We were given a great opportunity.  It was about experiences – and testing the waters (literally), foreign languages, new foods and different ways of looking at the world.  But in the end it was the people we met:  Margo and Jackie’s humor; Mikael’s exploits; Maria’s graciousness; and Boris’ ability to promote anywhere, any time! And getting to know my teammates so much better (George’s one liners; Bill’s generosity; and Dave’s Viking heritage) Each of them warm, funny and supportive – those were the hallmarks of our parallel universe for a few very special days.  I have been asked if it was a life changing experience. Perhaps. Life affirming? Most definitely!