It sounds like the title of a 1940’s movie, doesn’t  it? But I did recently spent a few days in Latvia participating in the 1st Stage of the 2016-17 International Winter Swimming Association World Cup in Jelgava.  The world of winter swimming is highly organized and there are events (in cold climes of course) from November through March.  Some swimmers attend as many as they can – my limit is one per season.

In preparation we hastily  organized the ‘Swedish-American Winter Swimming League – a model of international cooperation. We flew into Stockholm to pick up Mikael who came down from Uema, buy clogs for Madeline and Kerry and eat herring; and oh yes, do a little training.  As New Yorkers we were far from ready – the water temperatures at Coney are still in the mid 50’s Fahrenheit; whereas in the rivers of Latvia they were in the mid 30’s.  Dave and I ‘trained’ by plunging into the very tiny ice pool (500 laps equals maybe 10 meters!) at the Russian Baths on 10^th Street. In Stockholm we found Hellansgarten – a park with an icy lake and plunged there prior to our flight to Riga.

Latvia is one of those Baltic countries more than a few Americans don’t know about (‘You’re going where?”). It wasn’t until after World War I did it gain its independence – which it lost after World War II and didn’t regain again until the Soviet Union broke up.  Riga is a small and charming city. We had dinner in a restaurant in the Old Town – hearty food washed down with balzams – the national beverage. Afterwards we drove through the snow to Jelgava, about one hour south of Riga.

 Afternoon in the Pool

At winter swims the ‘pool’ is a 2 – 6 lane body of water in a river or lake, framed by pontoons or docks.  In colder climes and later in the season it’s usually carved out of ice and surrounded by snow, but it was early in the season so it wasn’t as atmospheric – but the water was still cold – 5C (36F).  There were four swims: 450M (which is for the pros!), a 25M Team Relay,  a 25M Breast and a 50M Freestyle.  I had never done over 25M before in any previous swim, but this time I registered for the 50M.  The swims are held in – ironically titled – ‘heats’ –  arranged by sex and age.  I made it through the relay and 25M feeling pretty confident.  But I was very apprehensive about the 50M – made more so as my lane was in the middle of the pool.  I always like being in a side lane by a dock – just in case.  I considered dropping out until the last minute – but I had come this far across the world so I channeled all the positive energy from Diane; from my friends far and wide; and from my nearby swimming buddies – Mikael and Dave who seemed to be quite sure I could do it.  I lowered myself into the pool and did do a pretty good entry dive (been practicing that for a bit).  When I completed the first 25M lap (I had to turn around and come back to do the second 25M) I realized everyone else in my heat was already out of the water – and I was the only one in the pool.  In what seemed to me a 15 minute decision (but in reality just a few seconds) I was unsure whether to just cut bait and climb out halfway; but I heard the encouraging crowd…and I turned back and finished.  I think I now hold the world’s record for the slowest 50M in the coldest water (though I happily relinquished my world record for the longest time to do the 25M breast – turns out someone took 2 seconds longer than me to complete that swim).

Evening in Jelgava

The conclusion of every winter swim event ends in a festive party – lots of food, beverages and toasting.  The Swedish-American Winter Swimming League donned their new custom made shirts.  In a moment of inspiration a few days before the trip I saw a street vendor in Jamaica selling ‘real’ gold neck chains for $15 each.  Knowing they were the perfect accessory I bought three – at a discounted rate of $7 each.  As we had to leave early the next day we had to remain somewhat sober and called it a night at about 1 AM.  Over beer we toasted the event, and our friendship.  We compared these weekends to something like Brigadoon – once year we convene, swim and have a good time with little thought to much else going on around the world – or any upcoming elections. 

Morning in America

In retrospect it was the last weekend without the heaviness that has descended into my heart. So much has been written, said and posted since November 8th – no need to repeat how I feel about the election.  Suffice it to say I want to be open minded – but for better or worse I have read a great deal of history – especially Europe in the early 1930’s.  And to me there are so many ominous signs of what is to come.  This morning I went to the pool (yes, I do swim in a warm, indoor pool regularly – got to get that form and stroke ready for the next challenge).  After I swim I treat myself with a stop at my coffee cart.  Most people in New York City have “their” coffee cart.  I’ve been stopping at the same one for at least ten years.  Same guy inside – rain, shine, winter, summer.  I don’t know the coffee guy’s name, where he is from, or what his religion is – though by his appearance and accent I’d guess he is from the Mideast.  As he sees me approach he always smiles, says hi and in a few nanoseconds  he hands me  my standing order (coffee, milk, two sugars and a buttered roll for $2), puts his hand on his heart and always says “thank you sir.”  Today as he handed me my order he had a sad look and said, “My wife, she is so scared.”  It hit me very hard.  No decent person in this country should be scared.