As someone who grew up in the 1960’s China didn’t loom large in my world – with one exception – Chinese food. As the largest country in the world under Communism, China wasn’t on the radar. No one we knew traveled there, we didn’t have any products made there (everything was from Japan), and whenever there was an item in the news it was usually a picture of Mao in front of an attentive audience of five million people dressed alike.

But it was the food that hooked me. In the late 1950’s and well into the early 1970’s Chinese food was as exotic as it got for middle class Jewish culinary explorers seeking an alternative to deli night or spaghetti (not “pasta” – that word was too pretentious). Every neighborhood had a few Chinese restaurants. And if it were a Jewish neighborhood there were several. And similar to synagogues there Chinese restaurants we went to and those we would never step foot in –“Chop Suey Louie’s? Ugh, never again! The egg rolls gave me heartburn!” The great Chinese restaurants of my youth included Kwong Ming, Sun Ming, Harbin Inn and for fancy Chinese in midtown, Kee Wah Yen. In retrospect the food at these places was cleverly disguised as authentic. But it wasn’t until the Hunan and Sichuan places open in the mid 1970’s did we know we’d been had. Those platters of ribs (the favorite pork of the Jewish people), the wontons, the lobster sung, the crispy noodles dipped in “duck” sauce were all aimed at providing us with a taste of the orient – and they did for so long. With exception of Kwong Ming all the restaurants I remember are gone. Inexplicably Kwong Ming hangs on thanks to my 88-year-old Mom and her mah jong ladies who enjoy their repasts served by doddering waiters who probably listened to Mao at those long ago rallies.

Today’s Chinese food is streamlined and a mix of all-Asian fusion cuisine. It’s good and probably the real thing, but I do miss those lo and chow meins of my youth. And of course the little balls ice cream served with tiny paper umbrellas!

I don’t expect any little umbrella’s atop my plate when I get to China. I have heard the food is plentiful at the banquets we will be attending – leaving a little something on the plate is proper manners or they will just refill it. I am also told there are copious beverages and toasts to Sino-American Cold Water Swimming.

Since I ate my first spare rib and read The Five Chinese Brothers as a child, China, and our relationship with it has changed so much. Though there isn’t a lot time I will hopefully see the Great Wall, tour the Forbidden City and hopefully get lost in a hutang (but not too lost!).

The packing commences later today. In the last few weeks I have buying items for the trip – so many are made in China. My Uniqlo down coat, my Ecco shoes, my I Phone 6, even the specially made commemorative patches – all made in China. I like to think I am taking them home for a visit. But for me it will be a brand new experience.